Texas Hill Country-- Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park and LBJ State Park- with Photos & Videos

I first visited the Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park and Lyndon B. Johnson State Park and Historic Site in January 1999. I had just arrived in San Antonio, Texas for my first assignment at Lackland Air Force Base. My mother had come along to help me with my move. I asked some of my new co-workers for ideas for weekend day trips. The LBJ parks were suggested, so off Mom and I go. Then in the car, I started to think, “What the heck was I thinking?! Mom is going to be bored to tears with LBJ stuff.” She and Dad voted for Goldwater. I think the wisdom of LBJ’s commitment to civil rights escaped most white Southerners back then.

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had the last minute “What was I thinking?! Mom’s not going to enjoy this!” panic over the last 10 years or so. But my mother enjoyed the LBJ Parks. In fact, we have been back once or twice together since. So why have I continued to underestimate my mom’s capacity to enjoy diverse local history and sites? How many times must a daughter underestimate a mother and be pleasantly surprised, before the daughter ceases to be shocked? So far for me, about 10 years. Sometimes I swear I’m the dumbest smart person I know.

So anyway, I’ve been to the Johnson National Park and State Park about six times now, with various friends and relatives, and enjoy them every time. Everyone that I have taken for visits has enjoyed the Parks as well. I’ll probably go another six or so times in the next 10 years.

The LBJ National Historical Park is in Johnson City.  Johnson City was settled in 1876, named for James Polk Johnson, whose land was used for the settlement.  It is about 60 miles north of San Antonio on 281 at the junction with 290, and 50 miles west of Austin on 290.  The National Park Visitor Center is open 8:45 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. daily except New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Day.  It is just a couple blocks off of Main Street, near the Post Office.  Just follow the brown signs.  The Visitor Center has exhibits, like a small museum of historical objects and information.  There are storyboards with information like President Johnson’s initiatives in bills and legislation.  Of course there is the usual gift shop.  My favorite things about the Visitor Center are the two movies.  There are two small and comfortable theaters and a 30 minute movie about President Johnson and a 30 minute movie about Lady Bird.  I never miss them. 

One of President Johnson’s cabinet members, Joseph Califano said a Presidential Administration might pass three or four major pieces of legislation and consider itself successful.  President Johnson’s Administration passed 1400 laws, including legislation for medicare, Medicaid, food stamps, and national public radio.  His administration was responsible for more education and national park bills than any other administration.  Lady Bird spearheaded “Beautification”, a successful environmental initiative, but stayed clear of such terminology to avoid political quagmire. 

My other favorite thing about the LBJ National Historical Park is visiting President Johnson’s boyhood home, which is across the street from the Visitor Center.  Tours are conducted every 30 minutes, from 9:00 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. and 1 p.m. to 4:30 p.m.  The tours are narrated by park rangers, who are very knowledgeable.  Trust me on this, I’ve asked them plenty, and they always have the answer, and are pleasant about it to boot.  There are great stories about the Johnson’s family life.  Interesting too, is that both Mr. and Mrs. Johnson were educated.  This was rare for a female.  Another bonus is that the Park Service allows you to take pictures in the house. 

The Johnson Settlement is also within walking distance of the Visitor Center in Johnson City.  See the original cabin of President Johnson’s grandparents, 2 barns, other buildings and Texas Longhorn cattle.  There is also an exhibit building.  Tours are available from 9 a.m. until sundown.  Check ahead with the Visitor Center for availability of park ranger guided tours or guides dressed in period costumes. 

Before you leave Johnson City, head across to the other side of Main Street and see the historic Blanco County Courthouse.  Then consider lunch.  For such a small town, there are many choices for food.  I can personally vouch for two establishments.  I have eaten at the Hill Country Cupboard several times.  It reminds me of a cross between a diner and a truck stop.  They have pork chops, hamburger steak, BBQ, burgers and sandwiches.  They also serve fried green tomatoes.  More recently I decided to try something new and went to the Silver K Café on Main Street.  The lunch menu has a half dozen salads and a dozen sandwiches to choose from.  There are two hot entrees, Chicken Fried Steak and Pecan Crusted Chicken.  They advertize a Saturday Breakfast Buffet and Saturday evening Sample Fine Dining menu. 

The Lyndon B. Johnson State Park and Historic Site is about 14 miles from Johnson City, in Stonewall.  This is the LBJ ranch, including “the Texas White House”.  The State Park is over 700 acres.  Friends of President Johnson purchased land across from the Johnson Ranch, on the other side of the Pedernales River.  Once approved by Texas Parks and Wildlife, the park opened in 1970, several years before the death of the former President.  The State Park Visitor Center also has a theater, with a really good movie about the Johnsons and the Ranch.  There are exhibits and other buildings of interest near the Visitor Center and Gift Shop.  The real attraction however is the Ranch tour, which falls under the authority of the LBJ National Park Service.  The Park is open 9 a.m. until 5:30 p.m. daily except New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Day. 

A short drive from the Visitor Center is the “living history” Sauer-Beckmann Farm.  The compound depicts life during the time frame 1900-1918.  Household and farm chores are conducted daily by “park interpreters” dressed in period costume.  Activities include daily meal preparation, care of livestock, gardening and housecleaning.  Seasonal chores are also conducted, such as butchering of livestock and canning of fresh vegetables.  The tour takes about 1 hour. 

I have visited the Ranch a half dozen times, always taking the bus tour conducted by the National Park Rangers.  The Park is now conducting a trial of self guided driving tours.  Attractions are the same.  Park guests can visit the one room school house where young Lyndon attended before the family moved into Johnson City.  Next is the tour of the reconstructed “dog trot” house where the President was born.  This is near the Johnson Family Cemetery where the President, Lady Bird and the President’s siblings are buried.  The Texas White House is now partially opened to the public.  Some of the Johnson vehicles are on display near the house.  The airstrip is also near the house.  I would allow at least 2 hours to see all of these sites. 

Throughout the park as you drive, you can see an abundance of wildlife.  There are longhorns, buffalo, bison, wild turkeys and lots of deer.  Much of the land reflects the natural environment, which supports only low-water vegetation.  As you drive through the acres, you will also see the irrigation system and other signs of productivity, as part of the land is set aside as what is still a working ranch, raising livestock. 

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