Travel in Germany- Ludwig’s Bavarian Castles

I was stationed in Germany for three years in the early 90s.  I lived in the Eifel region near Belgium, in a little village named Neidenbach, but my favorite travel destination in Germany was Bavaria.  There are great old walled cities on the “Romantic Road” on the way to Bavaria.  Munich may be the most well known city in Bavaria, and is home to the Hofbrauhaus, arguably the most famous beer drinking establishment in the world. 

On a somber note, you will also find Dachau concentration camp, Hitler’s bunker, and Hitler’s “Eagle’s Nest” in Bavaria. 

Among my favorite attractions in Bavaria are the castles of King Ludwig II.  In this hub, I am sharing my personal photos of Hohenschwangau, Neuschwanstein, Linderhof, and Herrenchiemsee.  With just a few exceptions, all the photos are scanned from my pictures from the 1990s.  I hope you enjoy the photos, as well as the history, which is from a book I bought in Bavaria, the English edition of Ludwig II’s Legacy:  Royal Bavarian Castles and Palaces.

Ludwig II was born on August 25, 1845, the 59^th birthday of his grandfather, Ludwig I.  Young Ludwig’s father, Maximilian II of Bavaria, assumed the throne in 1848, when Ludwig I unexpectedly abdicated.  Max II’s more liberal views laid the foundation for political parties, freedom of the press, and trial by jury. 

Max II was virtually a stranger to his sons Ludwig II and Otto.  They rarely saw their father, except when the family spent summers together at his father’s castle, Hohenschwangau.  Crown Prince Maximilian bought the Hohenschwangau ruins near Füssen in 1832.  He was drawn to the site because of ties to medieval times and the Lords of Schwangau, who could trace their ancestry to the 12^th century and the Wittelsbach Dynasty. 

Ludwig II assumed the throne on the day of his father’s death, March 10, 1864 at the age of 18.  It was a tumultuous time with the feudal system fading away, and industrialization evolving.  Austria and Prussia were at odds. 

Ludwig II was engaged to his childhood sweetheart, Duchess Sophie, in 1866.  They bonded over their mutual love for the works of composer Richard Wagner, extensively analyzing his works in letters.  The engagement did not last, and Ludwig II never married.  His diaries suggest he was homosexual, which he suppressed because of his Catholic faith. 

In the year of his death, 1886, Ludwig II wanted to reform his cabinet.  They accused Ludwig of being unfit, and commissioned a team of four psychiatrists to compile a report.  The psychiatrists interviewed cabinet members and servants, but did not examine Ludwig.  On June 9, 1886, Ludwig was certified and his uncle Luitpold stepped in as regent.  On 12 June 1886, Ludwig II and his doctor were found together, dead in a lake.  No water was found in Ludwig’s lungs, suggesting he did not drown, and hinting at foul play.  Ludwig was 40 years old. 

Aside from worrying about their positions, perhaps Ludwig’s cabinet members were concerned about Ludwig’s mounting debt, which was largely related to the construction of his lavish castles.  Today King Ludwig II’s castles are huge tourist attractions, and bring enormous income to the area. 

In 1867, about four years into his reign, Ludwig made two fateful trips.  The first was to Wartburg castle in Thuringia, Germany, where Ludwig was enamored by the newly restored minstrels’ hall.  The second trip was to France, where Ludwig passed by Pierrefonds Castle on his way to Paris.  Pierrefonds had also recently been restored, “resurrecting the romanticism of medieval life”, and decorated in a neo-Gothic style.  These experiences fortified Ludwig II’s resolve to recreate a medieval castle with a lavish minstrel hall. 

In May of 1868, Ludwig excitedly wrote to his friend, composer Richard Wagner of his “intention to have the old castle ruins near the Pöllat’s Gorge newly built in the true style of an old German knight’s castle.”  The plans for a new castle, to rise from the ruins of a previous castle, were completed in June 1868.  In that same year, the ruins that could not be incorporated into the new castle were demolished, creating a base for the new castle courtyard.  And so work began on Neue Burg Hohenschwangau.  (The castle was not known as Neuschwanstein until after Ludwig’s death.) 

Ludwig II was very hands-on with shaping his castles into his vision.  He personally approved every aspect of the interior design and decoration of Neuschwanstein.  In a nod to the Lords of Schwangau and the Wittlsbach Dynasty, the swan theme can be found throughout the castle.  Ludwig chose scenes from old legends for paintings and murals also found throughout the castle.  These same legends, Lohengrin, Parsifal, and Tannhäuser, were chosen by Wagner for the subjects of his operas.  Neuschwanstein was a temple to Lugwig’s beloved friend Richard Wagner.  Many believe Lugwig was in love with Wagner. 

Minstrel’s Hall, Throne Room, and Bed Chamber

Ludwig celebrated one birthday in the magnificent minstrels’ hall, but sadly never realized his dream of hearing a concert or one of Wagner’s opera in the room.  Ultimately the hall was christened with a concert in 1969. 

Ludwig originally intended for the Throne Hall to be in the neo-Gothic style, but ultimately the room was modeled after the Christian-Byzantine Hagia Sophia church in Istanbul and Ludwig I’s neo-Byzantine Court Church of All Saints in Munich.  The hall was finished in 1886, the year of Ludwig II’s death. 

Ludwig’s original vision was for a neo-Gothic themed castle.  Ultimately the only rooms furnished in the neo-Gothic style were the King’s bed chamber and the chapel adjoining the chamber. 

The bed chamber is stunning with intricately carved dark oak furniture.  The bed, reading chair, and wash table are said to have taken fourteen woodcarvers four years to complete! 

Sad End

Though Neuschwanstein was never finished, King Ludwig II spent a total of 170 days there, over a two year period. 

It was never Ludwig’s intention for his splendid castle to be toured by the masses.  After the commissioned psychiatric evaluation, Ludwig was arrested.  He whispered to his valet, “Keep these rooms as a shrine.  Do not let them be desecrated by inquisitive eyes, for I have spent the most bitter hours of my life here.”  Not only was his wish not honored, but the castle was opened to the public a mere seven weeks after Ludwig II’s death. 

Visiting Neuschwanstein

A friend once said, when he was finished with his overseas Air Force assignment, he wanted to look back and know he had really taken advantage of the experience, including seeing some sites more than once!  I took this to heart, and saw Neuschwanstein no less than four times between 1991 and 1997.  When visiting in early June in 1996, it was cold and rainy, but not crowded.  It seems that the area is a ski resort area, and potentially more crowded in the winter. 

Visit the official website for current information, including how to get there, phone numbers, and ticket costs.  Tickets are bought at the Ticketcenter in the village of Hohenschwangau, and cost 9 Euro.  You can use this site to calculate admission in your currency. 

Visiting Neuschwanstein is by guided tour only.  They are open daily except December 24, 25, 31, and January 1.  Touring the castle involves climbing 165 steps and descending 181 steps, though handicapped and wheelchair tours can be arranged. 

No photos or videography are allowed inside.  So I’m not sure how the Creative Commons or YouTube interior photos and videos were made…

You can glimpse Neuschwanstein Castle in the movies Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, The Wonderful World of the Brothers Grimm, and Around the World in 80 Days. 

Linderhof is the only finished castle of Ludwig’s Bavarian castles.  Most consider Linderhof to have been the King’s primary residence, where he lived often, and for prolonged periods of time. 

Linderhof and Herrenchiemsee reflect Ludwig’s obsession with Louis XIV.  Both castles were modeled after Versailles.  Whereas Louis’ excess and opulence were about political power, for Ludwig II it was more about indulging himself in his world of imagination and fantasy. 

In 1869, Ludwig purchased the land for Linderhof.  It was farmland for the Ettal monastery in the 15^th century.  After seven sets of plans for the “new Versailles at Linderhof”, Ludwig chose the Royal Villa proposal. 

It is a widely held opinion that Linderhof is “overdone”.  As with Neuschwanstein, Ludwig oversaw every detail.  Apparently typical for the end of the 19^th century, rooms were cram packed with ornaments and furnishings.  It was well said in Ludwig II’s Legacy:  “The room decorations here overpower and suppress each other; there is so much that no single piece can receive the attention it deserves.”  Just try to appreciate the Viennese chandelier in my photo. 

Linderhof Castle is only half the experience.  On the grounds are a opera-themed grotto, a Moorish pavilion, and Ludwig’s father’s hunting lodge. 

Visit the official website. 

Herrenchiemsee Palace is Ludwig’s largest palace, fitting as his grand tribute to Louis XIV and the palace at Versailles. 

Herrenchiemsee is on Herreninsel Island in the middle of Chiemsee Lake, the site of the Augustine Monastery.  Construction was underway from 1878 to 1885 on an estimated 50 to 70 rooms, the majority of which were never completed.  Ludwig spent only a few days at Herrenchiemsee in September of 1885. 

When touring the palace and the amazing grounds, complete with large fountains, you will likely forget that the palace is unfinished!  The Mirrored Gallery, with chandeliers and candelabras holding some 2000 candles, makes quite a lasting impression. Another memorable highlight of the palace is the 50,000 gallon tub. 

Herrenchiemsee is open daily, and allows pictures.  Go in nice weather and enjoy the boat ride to the palace.  Don’t worry though, you can ride inside the cabin if it’s too cold and windy.  When you arrive on the island, take a nice walk to the palace, or enjoy the horse carriage ride. 

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